Mason terms

1. The "leveling layer" is aimed at uneven ground. If the ground is very smooth, it is in full compliance with the laying requirements of the ground materials and allows you to level, then you will be able to say: NO.

Editing explanation: According to the literal meaning is to find the flatness, 2-3cm of the leveling layer on the floor height should be better. If the ground is very smooth, of course, it will not be necessary. However, some leveling can not be saved, such as the old shop is the original shop is a tile, which must be leveled after the eradication; there are such as the icon of the floor to the ground flatness is very high: 2m range height difference must be less than 3mm You still have to level it, otherwise the floor is not finished, you really can't justify it.

If you can't eat it, ask the manufacturer when you buy the floor. Some manufacturers will provide survey flatness services before paving. The solid wood floor can not be leveled, but its flatness can be adjusted by the keel. The most used method at present is cement mortar leveling and self-leveling. The latter is expensive, and it is sometimes used in floor heating. In some budgets, the same meaning is used to write flattening floors.

In addition to judging the degree of flatness, you can also look at whether there is a leveling (flattening ash with your feet) or whether there is emptying...

2. “Tiles with 45° cut corners” has become an important process in the renovation of aesthetics.

Editing explanation: To say this, you must first understand how to call Yang angle. It is the corner where the wall protrudes. The one that is in the light, and it corresponds to the inside corner.

If you tile two tiles at the corner of the sun, there is bound to be a side of the tile exposed. Although the side is very thin, the unsightly colors are a bit out of place. Before the decoration is not elegant, it also does not matter, and now the beautiful appearance of the decoration becomes important, so everyone wondered on both sides of the tiles are polished to 45 ° and then stitching, it can completely avoid this problem, and some budget It will be called chamfering or fighting. If you really don't want lead angles, you can also use the positive angle, but personally feel not very good-looking.

In the budget, some companies like to list this item separately for quotation, and some of them include it in the cost of laying ceramic tiles. Some owners who once asked the latter have said that the latter is easier to accept. Also like "marble edging" and this is similar, but most of them are rounded by machines. It is generally divided into unilateral and bilateral grinding.

3. "Tilted, sporadic, inlaid paving ... ..." How do tiles have so many stickers?

Edit explanation: Because of the high requirements, so many tricks. This is a method of sticking a tile. The diagonal tape is the angle between the tile's paving and the horizontal line. This is more suitable for small bricks. It is usually affixed to the wall and mixed with vertical paving. The lines on the wall are more abundant. And there are also changes that enhance the spatial three-dimensionality and active atmosphere. However, its requirements for the gaps in the tiles will be relatively high, and the labor cost will be 5 yuan/m2 more expensive than the ordinary ones.

As for sporadic paving and inlaying and paving, they are used more often in marble. Generally, they refer to partial paving at home or as a general mosaic effect. The loss of such paving is relatively large.

4. "Cooking" is to fill things in the tile teeth.

Edit explanation: also called caulking. The gap between the tiles is a bit like a crack in the teeth, and what you need to do is to fill in these holes. Isn't there no gaps for this project? No, if the gap is small, the tiles may squeezing the glaze when it expands or shrinks, and the tiles will fall after a long time. The gaps of general wall tiles should be controlled at about 1-1.5mm, the antique bricks should be controlled at 3-5mm, and the outer wall culture bricks should generally be above 5mm, not less than 1mm.

Some mason likes to use a toothpick to control the gap. This method is the simplest. In the past few years, there are also specialized seam-jointing materials: cross, width 1, 2, 3, 5mm, etc. Not so cool is the low recycling rate of this stuff.

As for filling materials, in addition to the traditional white cement, there are also special grouts and grouts, which are richer in color and can be freely matched. Some workers began to make joints after the tiles were laid. This was not appropriate. At this time, the tiles were not completely fixed, and they were easy to loosen. They should wait for the tiles to dry, and most of them would be jointed every other day. In the regular budget, the corresponding gaps and sealants used will be clearly marked.

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